Pasta Primavera

On March 20th the sun crossed the celestial equator. In that magical moment, day and night, darkness and light are evenly divided. It is the Vernal Equinox, the beginning of spring in the northern hemisphere. In appreciation I offer Pasta Primavera, our Recipe of the Month for April.

Primavera means springtime in Italian. Our recipe for Pasta Primavera brings together Bucatini with a handful of spring vegetables and a soupçon of cream, butter and parmesan. It is a humble dish, simple to prepare but devilishly difficult to do well. It is unctuous without being overly rich. Garlic and oregano are used with restraint, so that the vegetables can shine through, each with a subtle flavor and texture. If the characteristics of the vegetables are lost in a sea of cream or a morass of garlic and herbs, the dish is ruined.

Spring vegetables will be on supermarket shelves for months, but local asparagus and peas will only be at their peak briefly, subject as they are to the vagaries of sun and rain on the fields of the central valley. Rhubarb is my harbinger. When it comes to market, I know it’s the right time to shuck peas and peel asparagus. And yes, one must always peel asparagus.

There are as many versions of Pasta Primavera as there are Italian restaurants. Lacking an inspired cook, it’s rarely a dish worth ordering in a restaurant. Most of the recipes I have read for Pasta Primavera, as is the practice of most restaurants, suggest that the variety of vegetables in a primavera is subject to the whim of the cook. Nonsense. Pasta Primavera, like Carbonara, Bolognese, or any of the classic Italian pasta preparations, is subject to the rules of ‘correctness’ that govern all things delicious. To suggest that Pasta Primavera is just pasta tossed with whatever vegetables you have on hand is tragic.

A great Primavera is a revelation. It’s a bowl full of subtlety and finesse. It tells a story. It specifies a time and place. It allows an earnest cook to declare, tacitly, that they are inspired by seasonality and by simple things done well. Amen.

The creation of Pasta Primavera is credited to Sirio Maccione, the proprietor of La Cirque restaurant in New York. The dish was the top choice of A-listers and Broadway stars who ate supper late and wanted something ‘light’ before retiring. Pasta Primavera was never listed on the menus at La Cirque. It was a ‘secret menu’ item, long before secret menus were cool. Sergio, in his tailored tuxedo, would prepare Pasta Primavera on a gueridon at the tableside. I was born too late to have had the pleasure. Sirio Maccione died in 2000 at the age of 88. His three sons continue to operate La Cirque, Circo and Sirio restaurants in Las Vegas and around the world. Pasta Primavera is still not listed on the menus.

Howie's Pasta Primavera

For several very practical reasons, this recipe is written for four people, to be served family style (out of the pot) and tossed at the table. The recipe offers a methodology for how to make this happen, easily. Follow the directions. Trust me on this one.

The original recipe for Pasta Primavera was made with Spaghetti. I prefer Bucatini, which is essentially fat spaghetti with a hole in its center. It is just a bit more adept at holding creamy sauces. At the restaurant we use house-made Bucatini, which is lovely, but for the household cook Barilla brand, which is readily available, works well. Select and handle the vegetables with respect. Big, fat, jumbo asparagus are always preferred. They are more flavorful and less stringy than the pencil-thin varieties. Always peel asparagus. It’s not optional. If you have a French mandoline or Japanese benriner, use it to slice the zucchini into rounds the thickness of a credit card, such that they wilt quickly into the sauce. To prepare the spinach, cut it above the tie, and wash it thoroughly to remove dirt and debris. If you use bagged baby spinach, it’s ready to use.

The broccoli is blanched ahead of preparation. Keep it very “al dente,” almost raw, or it will be overcooked in the latter stages of preparation. Broccoli rabe is a good substitute, lending a bit of earthiness to the dish. When buying English peas, pop open a pod and taste a pea. It should be sweet. If it tastes bitter or “green,” let them ripen for a day before use, or, in a pinch, you have my permission to substitute frozen peas, which I confess, I like very much.

In the gestalt of a well-made Primavera, it is fundamentally important that the cooked vegetables in the sauce should be verdant, al dente but tender. Overcooked vegetables are a Primavera disaster, so err on the side of caution. Remember that the vegetables will continue to cook under their own steam, even after they have been taken off the heat.

Howie’s Pasta Primavera

Yields 4-5 Servings Sauce Base

1/4 cup Shallot, peeled, halved, and sliced thin
1/2 cup White wine
1 tsp Dry oregano
1/4 tsp Chili flakes
1 tsp Kosher salt
1 cup Cream
1. Combine all ingredients except the cream in a small saucepan.
2. Bring to a boil, then simmer until liquid is reduced by 7/8 (almost dry).
3. Add cream. Continue to simmer gently for 5 minutes. Be careful, it may bubble over.
4. Remove from heat. Hold refrigerated for service. Can be made days in advance.
Vegetable Prep
All weights are net, i.e. measured after prep
150 grams Peas, shucked, blanched
150 grams Asparagus, prepped blanched
150 grams Broccoli, small florettes, blanched
150 grams Zucchini, sliced thin as a credit card
150 grams Spinach, baby spinach or chard
12 Each Cherry tomatoes, halved (24 pieces total)

To prepare the asparagus:
1. Peel the asparagus.
2. Cut off the tips (top two inches). Keep them.
3. Remove the bottom two inches. Discard them.
4. Cut the stalks into ½ inch pieces, diagonally. Keep them.
To blanch the peas, asparagus, and broccoli:
1. Bring a pot of salted water to a rolling boil.
2. Cook the vegetables individually and briefly until they are just past raw, maybe a minute.
3. Remove the blanched veggies to an ice bath to stop the cooking.
4. Combine all the cooked and raw vegetables and set aside.
5. Hold refrigerated for service. Can be made a day in advance.

Watch Pasta Primavera Part 1 Video Tutorial Here

Howie’s Pasta Primavera

Yields 4-5 Servings

1 lb Pasta, spaghetti or bucatini

4 oz Butter

6 tbl Garlic, minced

¼ cup Basil, diced

All Sauce Base

To taste Salt and freshly- ground black pepper

1 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated

You will need two large pots to prepare this recipe. One pot will be used to boil the pasta and later brought to the table; the other will be used to cook the sauce. For the former, I would suggest something attractive that holds heat well. A Le Creuset or Staub Dutch oven would be my choice. For the latter, any large pot will do. A large colander should be at the ready.

Chef's Note In advance of serving, prepare the Sauce Base and do the Vegetable Prep. If it were my table, I would do this the day before.

On the day of serving, mince the garlic, grate the cheese (you’ll need more for the table), and dice the basil (see my Instagram reel). Make a salad. Set a table. Take a nap. One hour before serving: Get a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Use the attractive pot (the one you will eventually place on the table) to cook the pasta. Put the colander in the sink. Put ice water on the table. Don’t forget a trivet.

30 minutes before serving: Place the salad on the table. Open the wine. Bread?

20 minutes before serving: Put the pasta into the boiling water in the attractive pot. Remember to stir it occasionally. In the other pot, over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the garlic and basil. Cook briefly without browning anything. Add the prepared vegetables to the pot; cook briefly, for a minute or so. Add the Sauce Base. Bring to a boil. Cook until the zucchini is just wilted. Remove the pot from the heat. Add a big pinch of salt and pepper. When the pasta is fully cooked (to your preference), drain it in the colander. Do not rinse it.

Moving quickly, place approximately half of the cooked (still hot) pasta back into the attractive pot. Ladle half of the cooked veggies and sauce on top of the pasta. Sprinkle half of the grated cheese. Place the other half of the pasta on top of all that. Ladle the remaining cooked veggies and sauce on top, scraping up every drop of creamy goodness. Sprinkle the remaining cheese on top.

If you have a lid, put it on. Off to the table, quickly. Toss. Portion. Eat.

Watch Pasta Primavera Part 2 Video Tutorial Here